Frozen Sprinklers Can Be Salvaged!

If you still need sprinkler system winteizing we can preform that service even if your pipes are frozen.   I charge $125 to $350 for this service, depends on travel and time needed to get it blown out.   It may seem high but I have much experence in salvaging frozen sprinkler systems.  Repairs can be $1,000 or more depending on broken system components.

Why is the price so high, let's start with the time to unthaw or possibly repair damaged pipes.  I'm only traveling out to your home to provide service for you, not several other cusomters in your area.  It's hard on the compressor, hoses and fittings. 

Why don't other irrigation companies provide the service. Some rent a compressor just for the month of October they aren't going to spend $100 or more for a day rental.  Most don't know how to work with a frozen system.  The rest don't want to work in the cold.

I've included some info on slowing down the damages caused by not having the water removed from your sprinkler system.

Before the frost sets in I can blow out the water in the underground portion of you system.  Even if you have damaged or frozen: pipes, back flow preventer or valves above ground.   The system in the ground can be salvaged minimizing the damage to your system, once the frost has set in it's too late.  Just call in the spring for a repair estimate.

 

 

Here is a basic guide that may prevent issues with your system, if you haven't had it winterized and allow time for us to get there before the ground freezes.

Not liable for damage to your system from freezing weather this is a guide to help prevent damage.

Nothing replaces a professional irrigation system winterizing.

1. Turn on your system (Manual start watering zone 1)  Water should be coming out of your sprinkler heads - if not it may be frozen.  You can wait upto 20 minutes and see if it unthaws or try during a warmer time of day, when temp is above 32 degrees.  Do Not Shut off The Sprinkler Control Timer, let it run through all zones.

2. Shut off the inside water supply to your system.

3. Open the faucet attached to your back flow preventer or remove the plug or cap (water should flow out)

4. Turn the valves 45 degrees.

5. Turn the test valves 45 degrees with a straight slot screwdrive, some you have to remove plastic black or yellow caps. Some you have to twist counter clockwise to open.

If you can't open them, try to remove them with a wrench. If removed keep them handy for me when I come to blow out the system.

This will help protect the above ground equipment and pipes, but is not a complete winterizing of your system.

The in ground portion will freeze as the frost sets in and damage to your lines, head and zone valves will happen.

Here is a couple of links to videos to help and demonstrate systems that may be close to yours. No two systems are the same.

So use your own judgement as you try to drain the water from your system.

Click links below for some help with your system.

http://youtu.be/hstrwLVbsyk

Back flow preventer protecting

This one has a valve attached to it

Call Chris (612)270-2957 

This is a guide from hunter irrigation systems.

If your backflow device (the most common backflow installed is called a Pressure Vacuum Breaker) has ball valves, open and close the isolation valves on the backflow device numerous times to ensure that any trapped water has escaped from the upper areas. Leave the isolation valves open at a 45° angle (approximately 1/2 open) and open the test cocks.

 

Pressure Vacuum Breaker

  1. PVB Test Cocks
  2. Isolation Ball Valve Inlet
  3. Isolation Ball Valve Outlet